Peptides AcademyCentella Asiatica (Cica)
How to Use
Centella asiatica is compatible with virtually all skincare actives. Its anti-inflammatory and repair properties make it especially valuable alongside irritating actives (retinoids, AHAs, BHAs) and collagen-stimulating peptides where it provides synergistic collagen synthesis support.
With peptides
Centella's asiatic acid stimulates collagen type I synthesis through TGF-beta activation — the same pathway that signal peptides like Matrixyl target. Combining centella with collagen-signaling peptides provides dual-pathway collagen stimulation: peptide-mediated matrikine signaling plus triterpene-mediated TGF-beta activation.
With retinol
Centella is one of the best ingredients to pair with retinol. Apply a centella-rich product (toner, serum, or moisturizer) after retinol to reduce the inflammation, redness, and barrier disruption that retinoids can cause. The collagen-stimulating effects of both ingredients are complementary.
With niacinamide
Centella + niacinamide is the classic K-beauty soothing combination. Both are anti-inflammatory with barrier-repair properties. Together they address redness, sensitivity, and moisture loss more effectively than either alone.
Best For
Where this entry is most relevant.
sensitive-skin
Centella asiatica reduces inflammation through multiple mechanisms — inhibiting TNF-alpha, IL-1beta, and PGE2 while promoting anti-inflammatory IL-10. For sensitive, rosacea-prone, or post-procedure skin, centella provides active repair without irritation risk.
anti-aging
Asiatic acid and madecassic acid stimulate type I collagen synthesis in fibroblasts, while madecassoside inhibits collagen-degrading MMP enzymes. This dual collagen-promoting and collagen-protecting activity makes centella a meaningful anti-aging ingredient, particularly when combined with signal peptides for multi-pathway collagen stimulation.
What is it?
Centella asiatica is a medicinal plant whose triterpene compounds — madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid — promote collagen synthesis, reduce inflammation, and accelerate wound healing. It has become a cornerstone ingredient in K-beauty and sensitive-skin formulations.
How It Works
- 1
Triterpene absorption
The four primary triterpenes — madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid — penetrate the stratum corneum at different rates. The aglycones (asiatic acid, madecassic acid) penetrate more readily than the glycosides (asiaticoside, madecassoside), providing both rapid and sustained activity.
- 2
Fibroblast activation and collagen synthesis
Asiatic acid activates TGF-beta receptor signaling in dermal fibroblasts, upregulating type I and type III collagen gene expression. Madecassic acid promotes fibronectin production, which provides the extracellular matrix scaffold for collagen fiber assembly.
- 3
MMP inhibition
Madecassoside inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-2) — the enzymes that degrade collagen and elastin in the dermis. By reducing collagen breakdown while simultaneously promoting collagen synthesis, centella provides a net positive collagen balance.
- 4
Anti-inflammatory cascade suppression
The triterpene complex suppresses NF-kB nuclear translocation and reduces pro-inflammatory cytokine (TNF-alpha, IL-1beta, IL-6) production by keratinocytes and macrophages. This calms existing inflammation and prevents inflammatory damage to collagen and elastin.
Role
Active — skin repair, anti-inflammatory, collagen stimulant
Evidence
Centella asiatica's wound-healing properties have been studied for over 60 years. A 2013 systematic review (Bylka et al., Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii) confirmed that its triterpene fraction stimulates collagen type I synthesis, promotes fibroblast proliferation, and inhibits the inflammatory mediators that delay wound healing. The TECA complex (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica, standardized to 40% asiaticoside + 60% asiatic and madecassic acids) has demonstrated efficacy in controlled studies for hypertrophic scar prevention, burn healing, and chronic wound management. In cosmetic dermatology, centella extracts at 1-5% improve skin hydration, reduce erythema, and strengthen the skin barrier in sensitive-skin populations.
Common Formats
How this shows up in practice.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Cream
Cream
Centella-focused moisturizer for sensitive and redness-prone skin
COSRX Centella Blemish Cream
Spot treatment
Concentrated centella for post-blemish repair and scar prevention
Purito Centella Unscented Serum
Serum
49% centella extract in a lightweight serum format for daily use